Switzerland Diaries - Jungfraujoch

Mar 2

Mar 2 Switzerland Diaries - Jungfraujoch

Jungfraujoch – Europe’s highest train station at 3454 metres above sea level, is in the Bernese Alps, atop the saddle between two ‘four thousander’ peaks – Jungfrau and Mönch.

Kleine Scheidegg Station, Jungfrau Railway Switzerland

Since 1912 the saddle has been accessible to tourists, only via the Jungfrau railway. Needless to say the ‘Top of Europe’ experience is an expensive one. Save your pennies up for it though, because it is 100% worth it.

Aletsch Glacier, Jungfraujoch Switzerland

Riding the train from Interlaken to Grindelwald, is spectacular. Black peaks rise from the horizon, and on the unseasonably warm day we visited, they are merely dusted with snow. Skiers on the train discuss the rarity of man-made snow at this time of year. Indeed ignoring this anomaly would only be possible for the strongest climate change skeptics. I have never seen mountains this big, and all eyes are glued to our window, watching them pass.

Bernese Alps, View from Jungfraujoch Switzerland

At Grindelwald we switch trains, along with all the skiers, to head toward Kleine Scheidegg. Onward up the mountain, the ski slopes are unmistakable from the fountains of snow being created. Before we make it for our scheduled change, the skiers all exit for their runs and the tourists are left on the train.

Changing trains at Kleine Scheidegg, the sun is so bright we can barely believe it is winter in Switzerland. The final leg of the trip to Jungfraujoch is the slowest by far. Almost immediately the train tunnels into the mountainside of Eiger and the slow progress of the train becomes evident without the panoramic views. Digging this tunnel, in the early 1900s would’ve been quite a feat and sadly, there is a memorial at the top to the men who died during construction.

Through into Mönch, the train takes a single photo stop along the way, and then we arrive underground at Jungfraujoch. Emerging into the ‘Top of Europe’ building is evident of the touristy side of this trip – Europe’s highest post office, the ‘Lindt Experience’ that only sells take away chocolate (probably at a higher price..) and some restaurants of varying quality. It is outside on the viewing platform that you start to make your money back.

I have never felt so physically ill from my fear of heights than whilst standing on that platform. I had also never seen a sight with beauty quite like that, and it kept me on the platform for longer than I’d expected.

Jungfraujoch - The Top of Europe, Switzerland

On this literally picture perfect day, the sun is bright, the sky as blue as ever and you can see every possible peak to the horizon. It is almost overwhelming where to look as every direction is incredible. You can tell we are up higher here, as the snow is deeper and of a thicker quilted appearance.

The highlight of the trip for me came next – walking out onto the base of the Aletsch Glacier (the beginning of a short hike to Mönchsjochhütte). Although we were unable to go on the full hike, being outside, high up in the mountains, on a day as truly perfect as the one we lucked, is an experience I will never forget.

Exploring the Ice Palace, carved out the Jungfraufirn Glacier (!) is a fun end to the trip, and another amazing feat in this otherworldly part of the world.

I admit that I baulked at the price of this adventure as a potential tourist trap, but having been outside in those mountains and seemingly touching the sky is something that truly made me richer.