Whaligoe Steps

The North Coast 500 is dubbed as Scotland’s answer to Route 66. 500 miles is a long way, and with an ever growing wish list of places to visit, driving the full distance seems less likely than ever.

So we decided that on our trek up to the Orkney Islands (some 500 kilometers from Glasgow!) we would drive the east coast portion of the route in case we don’t get another chance.

To be honest, a lot of the drive was in the dark, and then through country much tamer and repetitive compared to the craggy, mountainous west coast we have become used to driving.  So we looked for a show stopper for a place to stretch our legs.

The Whaligoe Steps date originally from the 18th century, and the zigzagging 365 steps cut into flagstone, lead down in to an impressive natural harbour.

Bordered by 250ft cliffs, the haven was used by up to 20 herring, ling and salmon boats at a time during it working life from late 1700s to the 1960s when the last salmon boat found a new harbour home.

The steps themselves are thought to have been used by the local women, who gutted the fish on the rocky shores in the haven, then carried the catch up the stairs and to Wick, 7 miles up the road, for sale.

An historic and beautiful place, the steps and harbour are shining when we visit in the blinding sun of mid September. We marvelled at the sheer cliffs, seabirds circling and yellow from lichen; they would’ve made for a strange welcome to the fishermen returning here with their catch.

Most of our visit we spent pondering the purpose of the brave men who would have had to moor here to make a living – they surely wouldn’t have risked the rocky cliffs in the often unforgiving Scottish weather, if there was another port nearby. They certainly wouldn’t have easily convinced the strong, local women to do 7 mile long circuits, ending and beginning with a trip down and up the steep, slippery stairs. It must’ve been a really important place.  

The fact that this gem of a place is still accessible, thanks to the work of local volunteers, says something about Scottish people through the ages. They are tough, hardworking, and will go to extraordinary lengths to find a good fish supper.

Returning up the steps, we then continued on the long drive up to Orkney, wondering what other gems we drove by on our quick trip up the east coast.