The Isle of Mull
To tick off a giant must do on our list – camping in the highlands – we took it one step further and headed to the isles. The Isle of Mull is shaped with three large peninsulas to it’s west; the protruding forehead, nose and chin of a friendly and wizen old witch.
The sail to the isle was quick and spectacular thanks to the brooding clouds that were holding onto their rain until a little later in the day. We spent the day exploring the Isle’s Northern Peninsula, with the first stop to picture perfect town of Tobermory. The isle’s capital is lined with a rainbow of houses and scattered with lobster pots, well-worn vessels and other clues to the island’s main export, seafood.
We spent the afternoon exploring Dun Ara – a ruined 13th century castle atop a rocky sea shore with a semi-natural port constructed many centuries ago in the rocky pools at it’s base. If we hadn’t known it was built all that time ago, it would’ve looked simply like a hill by a rockpool and on our walk back, we mused at how many other hidden histories there must be on the island.
The rain starting to close in so we headed to our (first ever!) wild camping spot. Calgary Bay is often sited as one of the most beautiful beaches in Scotland, and (even by our high Australian standards) and it was gorgeous.
If only it were 20 degrees warmer it would be perfect for a dip.. The rain quickly settled in and after a soggy sausage fry up, we took early shelter in our tent for the night.
After the next day’s adventure on the Tidal Isle of Erraid, we took up camp at our next spot. Fidden Farm must surely rank as one of the most spectacular places to pitch your tent. Right on the beach, overlooking the pink-granite rocky shoreline and then the short strait over to the Isle of Iona, we settled in for just long enough to give time to appreciate the beauty of where we were.
It was then time for a real treat – at the locally sourced and immaculately presented Ninth Wave restaurant in Fionnphort. John, our host for the evening, told us that he had caught our crab, scallops and lobster that day, just over in the strait we were camped right in front of! His wife (and her team) then cooked it up to make one of the most delicious and special meals of my life.
After watching the sunset over the bay then retiring to our gorgeous tent-home for the evening, I can say that I was truly full. Of lobster and life.
The next day – of Puffin Therapy and exploring the Isle of Staffa – was one of the best of my life (worthy of two whole blog posts to come!) and camping in that most magic of places just cemented the Isle of Mull as one of my most favourite places in the world.
Our final day on the isle was spent driving alongside towering cliffs, searching for (but not finding) otters on the shorelines, and riding around Loch Ba – a stunning loch in the centre of the island.
I don’t know when I will make it back to the Isle of Mull, but even experienced mostly in the rain and wind, and perhaps especially since it was enjoyed simply from the comfort of our luxurious 3 person tent, it was genuinely one of the most memorable places I have ever had the pleasure to explore.
