The Quiraing — Stomping Feat.

Apr 7

Apr 7 The Quiraing

On the top of our list for our return to Skye was a walk up the Quiraing. The Quiraing stands at the northernmost point of the Trotternish Ridge – amongst the table mountains and neighbouring rocky features that are result of the largest landslip in Britain.

My geology is rusty, so luckily my wonder at this place transcends my need to fully understand how the landscape formed. It is sheer, and gnarled and craggy. Shadows from the cliff and clouds, contrast against pockets of light that brighten the way.

We start walking and after only a few hundred metres we take a sharp left and head straight up the grassy hillside. For me, I crawl on all fours, pulling myself up through the moss and mud and heather so I don’t have to look below me at the height. Although I am climbing near the edge, I feel safe holding the heather, and I am genuinely enjoying pulling myself up the mountain.

When I do stop on a safe ledge; after I have caught up with the pack who patiently waited while I took my time, the view back to the south of the Quirang is striking. The light is golden and transient, changing the vista each time I take a break and turn around. We make it to the top of the hill to meet a path, then head onwards upward, keeping the cliff to our right.

Walking with Andy, the most patient and understanding of hiking companions, my fear of heights is rarely tested too far. Walking with our friends who are also not afraid of heights, and the balance shifts in favour of the daredevils who walk through the unmarked field seemingly straight towards the edge.

I am more than happy to walk further inland, or sit and wait a safe distance from the sheer cliff, but I cannot make myself watch them exploring the edge, and perhaps I didn’t realise my fear was this strong.

What seemed like a few hours for me in my heightened state of fear, but was probably only 15 minutes later, we find the path again and my anxiety dissipates. Although we are now much closer to the cliff, with the path leading my way and I can again enjoy the views out to the sea, and down into the craggy valley below the height of the Quiraing.

We round down along the cliff before a sharp switchback to climb down under the cliff of the Quiraing. This part of the walk is my favourite. The sheer cliffs towering above us, the huge fallen rocks blacken the green field and importantly, the path leads us on a beautiful way.

The rocky formations – the needle, the prison and the other unnamed but just as beautiful rocks – are stunning. Weaving between them, along the cut away path beneath the cliff, I feel like we could be in Middle Earth, or in any other beautiful yet haunting imagined world.

The Needle and The Prison, Quiraing Isle of Skye

To my dismay, this part is the quick third of the walk, and it seems to be over too fast as the wind is so strong we don’t stop for too long to admire.

Probably for my benefit, but hopefully also out of awe for the valley, Andy says that if we ever do this walk again maybe we can just the loop below the cliffs. What a guy.

The Quiraing should be visited when you go to Skye. It isatmospheric and beautiful and makes for a challenging walk that has a pay off with great views from the top – even if your phobia of heights isn’t quite under control.