Loch Katrine: Water on Tap
Loch Katrine is about an hour’s drive north of Glasgow. The source of Glasgow’s delicious drinking water, we headed up to check where our tapped-goodness comes from.
Sir Walter Scott wrote ‘The Lady of the Lake’ about the largest island in Loch Katrine, and the atmosphere and beauty of this place is indeed evoking.
The easy 11km loop for our hike starts along a tarred road on the south-east side of the loch. The day is cloudy, and the mountains that I know surround the loch are hiding back there somewhere.
The water is glassy, and in between showers it perfectly reflects the sky, islands, lochside trees and mountains. The scene could be an otherworldly, continuous white sky, filled with floating geospheres. If it weren’t for the persistent rain soaking us through, standing to enjoy would’ve been magical.
A trail marker directs us up the hill, and a dirt track switchback takes us through the forest and to the top of Primrose Hill. Walking in the pouring rain, we can’t see the loch through the trees, nor the mountains through the fog.
This part of the walk seems to take forever without a vista to enjoy, even though we are walking extra fast to get through the rain. A puddle filled with thousands of frog eggs (and a couple of barely hatched tadpoles!) keeps us excited.
The obvious long-life of this puddle gives me a good idea of why this place was chosen to supply Glasgow’s water - it must literally be always raining here.
Finally (and though it felt like 10km, was only 3kms later), after turning back into the forest and down the hill, the rain began to ease and the sun peeped through the clouds.
The forest is mossy underneath, with bare deciduous trees dripping with strands of lichen from their branches. Bulbous and gnarled, the trunks and branches of these trees are characters. Enid Blyton’s Magical Faraway Tree (an absolute favourite from my childhood) could be hiding in this forest.
Making it back to the tarred road and the clouds have slightly heightened such that we occasionally glimpse a few of the nearby peaks. Again, the rain persisted. The reflection of the islands and trees and mountains now presents an impressionist watercolor of the scene, adding an eerieness to our walk back.
Although this was a straightforward walk on the whole, Loch Katrine is a beautiful place and the hike itself would be much better enjoyed on a sunny day minus the rain and plus the views. Highly recommended for an afternoon wander to get out of the city.