The Devil's Pulpit
The Devil’s Pulpit is so amazing we’ve had to visit three times so far. But before I rave about it’s beauty, first a teeny disclaimer.
This location had been fairly unknown to tourism before the last couple of years – it has since starred as a filming location for Outlander. As a result of the increased foot traffic since advertised as such, and even since we visited for the first time back in August, the paths have become incredibly degraded and muddy, and the owner of the land (we presume) has had to put up signs indicating the legitimate risks of visiting the Pulpit.
Unfortunately this place is an example of how the growth of ‘Insta-tourism’ is ruining some of the more beautiful, but less tourist-ready places in Scotland and beyond. The irony is not lost on me that we have been back twice and so are contributing to this problem, but I choose to take this place with some lessons when exploring:
- 100% stick to paths that are made so we don’t contribute to degradation
- Come prepared for any weather situation: proper, non-slip and waterproof footwear, rain clothes, some food and water are all essential in the Scottish outdoors
- Take the time and effort to seek out new, less explored places so to spread out the impacts our tourism does have on the environment
Finnich Glen – the correct name for the 100ft deep gorge – is located along Carnock Burn, about a 25 minute drive out of Glasgow. It is accessed by a short walk from the (unofficial) carpark, over a (sometimes locked) gate, and along a very muddy (slippery and sometimes precarious) path atop of the gorge.
‘Jacob’s Ladder’; a set of 100 or so, worn out and muddy stairs, accompanied by some slack rope for a bannister, is used to access the centre of the gorge. This route is not for the faint hearted (and for me, not without constant encouragement from Andy), yet the reward at the bottom of the gorge is worth it.
Luminous green walls, covered in moss, shamrock and ferns rise above a blood red river. Coloured by the red sandstone beneath the stream, the water flows quickly from your left to your right, swirling amongst the fallen branches and larger stones.
Those with wellies or waders can (carefully) explore up the burn, towards a church pulpit shaped red rock. This rock and the colours; it is clear why we are in a place generations past have named the Devil’s Pulpit. It is magical down here, but we leave after too many others have swelled the numbers on the small, red banks where Outlander filmed.
Climbing back up the ‘ladder’ seems easier than coming down, but it is a much muddier affair. Further along the top of the precarious path and it starts to slope downwards. Through the slippery piles of leaves and mud, you read the end of the gorge.
It is more open here but the gorge walls are still high. Some careful climbing will get you down to the river and with some balancing work, you can keep your feet dry and walk the waters edge up into the gorge.
There are less people here, and maybe the relative safety with which we got here also helped, but this is my favourite part of the gorge. The green walls are high, the red river flowing and the twists and turns of this part of the burn make it even more dramatic. Although the Pulpit is at the bottom of Jacob’s Ladder, the torsion of the waterway’s walls make this part feel like the belly of the Satanic beast.
Spending time in a place like this; so ‘recently’ discovered but so ancient, makes me dream of all the others places in Scotland me and the other instagrammers have yet to find.
The easy route back, along the edge of the farmers field, is now blocked off), but is a reminder of just how hidden the gorge is amongst the otherwise, unassuming and gentle terrain of the area.
